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Archive for December, 2011

Y’all know I’m about as Southern as they come. And those of us reared below (way below) the Mason-Dixon Line are defined by many aspects of our culture, chief amongst them being our traditional foods. But one thing that I have never been able to stomach, literally or figuratively, is the idea of eating innards.

Yes, I said it. Innards. In-erdz, which are defined as “the internal parts of the body, entrails or viscera.” Yum.

Now I understand that New Year’s day is a time to partake of the symbolic food item. I get that greens represent monetary good fortune. I will douse them in pepper sauce and lap them right on up. I will feast on the humble black-eyed pea, which is said to swell with prosperity as it is cooked. And I will more than likely indulge in a bit of bacon or some other sort of innocuous processed pork product so that I will forever move forward just as our porcine friends do as they root.

But I will not, cannot, ingest an innard. Tradition be damned.

I remember Granny and Baw were often known to ring in the New Year by enjoying a big steaming plate of brains and eggs for breakfast. Brains, y’all. Not bacon, not sausage – brains. The very idea is enough to put me off breakfast entirely. Scrambled eggs are just fine on their own, even runny ones. But mix them up with chunks of gray matter, and…well…there’s just not enough ketchup in the world to disguise that.

And I must apologize to all of you lovers of the chitterling, or “chitlin” as they are commonly called. I have smelled them cooking and cannot overcome it. I have eaten some truly foul-smelling cheeses that turned out to be just divine once you got them past the olfactory gland, but between my knowledge of this particular innard’s function and its fragrant nature, I’ll just have to say “no thank you, ma’am.”

Now Mama and Daddy will surely spend the first day of the year as they always do – indulging in head cheese or souse. Now there are two words that I firmly believe should never, ever be used in conjunction. They are “meat” and “jelly,” which is just what souse is – a meat jelly. The long and short of it is this: you cook the creature’s head until all the remaining meat bits give up the ghost and fall into the stock which will then congeal due to the natural gelatins in the skull. My parents will sprinkle some vinegar over this cold, pink gelatinous slab of meat goo (because that makes it better, she says as she rolls her eyes to the heavens) and gobble it up! Not me, brother.

Now I will confess to have eaten, when I was very young in the pre-nugget days, a pickled pig’s foot or two, but that is more of an extremity than an innard. I have very nearly relished a vienna sausage perched atop a Saltine cracker, but that was on a fishing trip. And I really don’t even mind the occasional smear of pate’, but I was in a foreign country. It is there, however, that I must draw the line.

If it looks like an innard and smells like an innard, then by Granny it must be an innard. And somehow I just can’t get my arms up around the fact that eating innards will bring you anything more than a swift gag reflex, much less a whole year’s worth of happiness, health and prosperity.

Which is exactly what I wish for all of you, dear readers. And thank you for reading my little stories, sharing your thoughts and memories, and indulging me in this little folly. I am truly honored to have shared this last year with you and look forward to many more.

Now can somebody please pass the cornbread?

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Y’all, I told myself I wouldn’t do it. I just swore I would not kick the dead horse of Christmas parodies, but I just can’t resist it.

So here it goes (sing with me now!):

On the twelfth day of Christmas the Deep South gave to me…

12 Half-shell oysters

11 Rs a-dropping

10 Quarts o’ gumbo

9 Laundry airings

8 Foundation garments

7 Barbeques

6 Out-law in-laws

5 Pints of ‘shine…

4 Cotton bolls

3 Bless your hearts

2 Cans of hair spray

and eighty-four percent humidity!

And now back to your regularly scheduled programs…

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Granny made fudge every year at Christmas – the real kind from the back of the Hershey’s Cocoa box. The kind that requires you intuit such things as when you achieve “soft ball stage.” The kind that requires you to beat it by hand with a wooden spoon until it yields in unglossy submission. The kind that you put out on the screened porch in the cold so it can set.

Now I love ambrosia, and Lane Cake, and the fruit cake cookie, but as far as I’m concerned fudge has always been and always will be the ultimate in Christmas treats.

The first Christmas I was on my own, I was a little homesick and a lot lonely, so I thought I’d cheer myself up by making a big old batch of Granny’s fudge. After all, Granny had made it look so easy…boil, drop, beat, set…how hard could it be? Suffice it to say, my “fudge” made a nice ice cream topping, even though it refused to set no matter what I did.

So began my obsession with Christmas candy – the making really more than the eating. Over the years every Christmas I have made, and still make, fudge (chocolate, peanut butter, with nuts and without), pralines, divinity, bourbon balls, and saltine cracker toffee. I also try to add a new recipe into the mix every year just for the sake of variety. This year will be salted pretzel caramels.

Every year too, as I stand over the stove stirring a pot of roiling sugar, waiting, waiting, waiting for it to get just right, I think of all the things making candy

Thank the Lord for a sunny day!

has taught me and swear on a bag of South Alabama pecan halves that I will take these lessons with me throughout the coming year.

1. Things don’t always have to be fancy. In these days of chimichurri, cooking on boards, and bacon on your cupcakes, it is easy to get caught up in the latest trends. However, if you dispense with the notion that you can’t cook it if you can pronounce all the ingredients and take two lowly egg whites, some sugar, and some Karo syrup, you can concoct the most divine morsel you ever put in your mouth. Hence its name – divinity. Divine in its taste. Divine in its simplicity.

2. Patience, Grasshopper, patience. If you want to make pralines, you have to exercise an inhuman amount of patience. Sugar will only caramelize so fast. Crank the fire up to high if you want to, but all you will wind up doing is spending the rest of the day figuring out how to scrub burnt sugar off of your Revereware. You must go slowly. You must stir. You must contemplate the subtle color changes as they bubble up. You must enjoy the process as much as the end result. The praline will not be rushed, nor should you.

3. A little salt makes it that much sweeter. When I first started making candies and desserts in general, I wondered why all the recipes called for added salt. I also heard every nightmare story of getting the salt mixed up with the sugar and adding too much. Anyhow, it turns out that a little saltiness just enhances the sweetness within, a fact which I am ever so glad Husband appreciates.

4. Sometimes you just have to follow the rules. Now it may come to a surprise to some of you, but I have, in my life, been known to test a boundary, question an authority, and deny the snake oil. When it comes to making candy, though, it is highly recommended that you follow the letter of the law absolutely and without question. Without question! If the recipe says cook that sugar water until it reaches 270°, don’t even think about stopping at 269°. Squint through the steam at that candy thermometer until you think your eyeballs will drop out, but don’t be tempted to hedge it even a little bit! And it will take FOREVER for that thermometer to creep up to the right temperature, hence Lesson #2 above.

5. Don’t forget the nuts. Plain fudge is good; fudge with walnuts is great! Without one perfect pecan half on the top, divinity is just a malformed marshmallow. Pralines without pecans? Unthinkable. How boring and drab our lives would be without the nuts. Appreciate them. Love them. Embrace them for the variety they bring.

Over the years, I’ve had plenty of successes and just as many failures. Miracles and disappointments. Blessings and calamity. And I’ve come to realize that making candy is about as close to meditation as I will ever get. But what joy it is to block out the world and watch the slow transformation of separate parts into a whole and contemplate the joy that can be derived from only the simple, the sweet, and the slightly nutty.

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