Sometimes you find yourself in a moment that seems cinematic, as if you’ve been somehow dropped into a movie. But you’re not the ingenue. You’re the observant extra on the bus stop bench. The one around whom all the activity swirls while you suck on a Big Gulp and try not to stand out. You know that your commentary on the situation at hand will be recorded for all of posterity in the raise of an eyebrow, the subtle widening of the eyes, the purse of your lips. You hope that if you really have been transported into a movie, it’s more Wes Anderson and less Quentin Tarantino.
That happens to me a lot. Most recently yesterday. With Husband.
It was a little more than a moment, perhaps 15 minutes, but in that short time many stories were told. And that’s what I love about living in the South, a place where people of all kinds come together for a short time and with a common goal. They meet in a place where strangers interact, or don’t, but where everyone can celebrate a victory together. A place where you’ll always be somebody’s baby. Here is a word movie — a short, if you will — about those few minutes from a Saturday down South.
There is little that will spirit Husband away from the television on a football Saturday, but this Saturday, being a slow one in terms of great gridiron challenges, we decided to venture out into the day. We were driven by hunger pangs and a deep hollow feeling that can only be filled by one thing — swine flesh. Not just any old piece of baloney on a cracker can fill a void like that. The only cure is barbecue, preferably pulled with chunks of charred bark and a sauce that makes your mouth fill up with more spit than is ladylike just from the thought of it. There must be dill pickle slices and a white bread bun that goes to mush as it becomes one with the grease. There must be white styrofoam and a roll of paper towels.
We went to the gittin’ place which today was Saw’s Soul Kitchen in Avondale. I did a u-turn to score a parking place right across the street. While many of Saw’s neighbors have slicked up the old buildings with chrome, wood, and bright paint, Saw’s has done little to improve the outside of their building, and even less on the inside. I like it that way.
We approach the building as the sun plays hide and seek with the clouds and a humid breeze with just a scant tease of fall spreads the smokey goodwill of ‘cue throughout the neighborhood. A man washes the front window with something that looks like watery Yoohoo. Sqeeeee-geeee. Squeeee-geeee. He wipes it clean with his onomatopoetic tool.
We duck past him under the dingy, once-white metal awning. There is a sign on the entry. “Please close door. AC on.” We enter. We close the door behind us. We are in a place now that can only be described as close.
There are about seven tables with mismatched chairs. A couple of them are occupied, one by the front window and one by the wall. A television hangs above the corner table. Most eyes in the place are on it. Alabama is playing. The announcers’ voices are muffled but you can tell when something is happening, even if you aren’t watching. The room gets a little quiet, the announcers speak a little faster, a little louder. A man in a white apron hollers, “Go, baby, go!” from the kitchen. One lady answers his call with the only appropriate response there is, “Roll Tide!” There is cheering, both on the television and in the restuarant. Then a commercial.
The back wall is the menu, chalked main items and sides. Smoked chicken. Pork. Catfish. All the usual things one expects when one ventures into this sort of establishment. They have banana pudding. The bathroom is to the right of the menu. You order to the left.
There is a young woman who is standing near the cash register talking on a cell phone. She’s staring at the menu, but engrossed in her conversation. She’s close enough to the counter that we think she’s in line. We hang back, giving her an appropriate amount of space even though we are all in a very small one. I catch her eye. She motions us to go ahead. She keeps talking. And staring. We go ahead.
There is no one at the register. The man in the white apron stands at a prep station with a row of white styrofoam in front of him. With his right hand he scoops up a big spoonful of greens, and with two quick jerks of his wrist, sends the potlikker back into the pot before the greens get sent to the go-box. His left hand grabs several buns that get set out…one, two, three…down the line, waiting for their pickles which are soon to come. His eyes still on the television, his hands and arms seem to have a mind of their own, filling the orders while he follows the game.
A harried woman comes to the register. She has a tattoo on her neck. It is in all fancy script, part black, part bright red. I have to resist the urge to lean across the counter to read it. Her eyebrows have been plucked razor thin. Black eye-liner, smeared from a day in the sweaty kitchen, settles into lines that could be called laugh, but probably aren’t. She looks at the television.
“Hep ya, baby?” For those of you not familiar with the vernacular of the South, she means “May I please take your order?”
We order and get a ticket and two styrofoam cups. 166 is our number. Drinks are on the same counter. We opt for tea, unsweet with a splash of sweet. Now there is sweet tea and there is sweet tea. The latter seems to run from the spigot a little slower. It will make your teeth ache. You might have to wash it down with a glass of water because sugar syrup will make you feel good, but it won’t quench a thirst. I know this sweet tea is that sweet tea from the few drops I mixed with the dastardly unsweet. The combination is perfect.
We sit at a table by the window. “Roll Tide” is behind Husband. She is licking her fingers. The door is behind me. I know the sign works because everyone who comes in slams the door. Not in a rude way. In the way you have to slam a door swollen by humidity. We sit and wait. Wait for 166.
The referee’s whistle is shrill. “Pork up!” “Drop some catfish!” “Roll Tide!” The window washer is now taking out the trash, a big sackful of greasy napkins, melted ice, styrofoam. The smell of garbage mixes with the other scents in these close quarters — vinegar, smoke, Clorox, He maneuvers through the tables, past the line, which now snakes almost to the door.
There is a man in camel-colored wingtips. He is tall and slim. The creases in his pants could cut you. His shirt is starched with heavy starch. Niagra. He is alone. His eyes are on the television.
There is another couple who are approaching middle age. They order and sit by the drink fountain. She stares one way, he another. They don’t speak. They don’t smile. They don’t look at one another, or anyone else. They don’t even look at the television.
The girl on the cell phone has ordered and is waiting near me. She’s still talking. “I told her he was sorry, but she wouldn’t listen.” She seems filled with righteous indignation, exasperated. I understand. Some people are just sorry. Some people never listen.
A young woman with two little children sits at the next table down. The little girl is probably 3, the little boy not quite a year. She lays the little boy across her lap and starts to take his pants off. I’m a mother. I know what’s coming. She shimmies his little pants off, glances around the room, and gives them a quick sniff. Unsatisfied, she puts them on the table. She takes him by the ankle and hold one leg up, and takes a tentative peek into the diaper. She looks momentarily relieved, until the little boy reaches out and grabs a handful of his sister’s hair. The little girl shrieks. The little boy hangs on. The mother tries to pry his fingers loose. Babies are stronger than you think. She looks tired.
I look at Husband. He’s watching the game too. Engrossed like most everyone else. The referee’s whistle shrills in short staccatos. “Order up!” says the man in the apron. “One sixty six one sixty six!” sings the lady from behind the counter. “One sixty six to go!”
Husband holds our cups while I claim our white plastic sack filled with white styrofoam containers. We pick our way back through the tables, through the line, and out the door. We close it firmly behind us.
As we walk across the street, I can still hear the whistles, the cheering. I hear a train in the distance. I imagine that the credits are rolling. The end.
4 thoughts on “Saturday Down South”
Absolutely brilliant, mouth-watering description and you’re right. It was like Fellini met Forest Gump. Be sure to get a slice of lemon-box pie. And Roll Tide!
Thank you, Leslie!
Ha! I love this. You’ve written it so well I could see it vividly. I love your line ‘could be called laugh lines, but probably aren’t’. That’s great!
Thank you very much!